Axxess Metra Tyto-01 2003-2008 Toyota

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Price: $61.65 $55.52   

Product Feature

• Turn-on Adapter Wiring Harness
• For select 2003-2008 Toyota Vehicles with JBL Synthesis Audio Systems
• Adjustable input gain
• compatible for USB update
• Allows the installation of an aftermarket unit in select 2003-2007 Toyota vehicles, while still making use of the JBL Synthesis amplified audio system

Product Description

Features: Turn-on Adapter Wiring Harness For select 2003-2008 Toyota Vehicles with JBL Synthesis Audio Systems Adjustable input gain compatible for USB update Allows the installation of an aftermarket unit in select 2003-2007 Toyota vehicles, while still making use of the JBL Synthesis amplified audio system Compatible Vehicle List: Toyota 2004-2008 Solara 2008 Highlander 2006-2008 Rav4 2007-2008 Sienna 2004-2008 Camry Solara 2007-2008 Camry 2003-2008 4 Runner w/ JBL 2005-2008 Tundra 2004-2008 Prius 2005-2008 Sequoia 2004-2006 Sienna 2005-2007 Tacoma

Axxess Metra Tyto-01 2003-2008 Toyota Review

*Used on 2001 Lexus IS300, and pyle PLDN74BTI 7-Inch Double DIN TFT Touchscreen Head unit.

Purpose:
IS300 comes with factory amp, and this connects between the head unit and the factory amp, so that you are not double amping/ burning up your factory amp with the new head unit that comes amped already. You need this ONLY if your head unit is pre-amped. If not, you can purchase a regular wiring harness. The difference between the two is that this product comes with a converter box labeled "axxess" (limits power to factory amp) while a regular, cheaper, wiring harness does not. You do not need this product if you will by-pass the factory amp.

Product description - what you get:
1. The converter box. This box is NOT the same as the picture, but it is a black plastic box with "axxess" engraved on the front. it is as big as men's wallet size (plus or minus) but it is about 1.5 inches thick. There is a screw on top of the box that controls how much power is sent to your factory amp.
2. Two wires. One that connects to the head unit to the converter box. And one that connects from the converter box to the factory wiring harness.
3. Instruction manual. Piece of paper, but is ENOUGH to get the job done.

Dependability:
The converter box is dependable, I feel that it will not fail.
I took the converter box apart and it is simple inside. 1 motherboard and a lot of space between the board and the outer covers, so the board will not fry. The unit does heat up a little, however, I do not believe it will ever fail because it is not hot enough to really cause damage. Although, I would keep in mind that this heat might affect your head unit if near by, that already builds heat in confined space.

Installing in LEXUS 2001 IS300:
The space behind my head unit was very limited and so the converter box felt very bulky to me. Luckily, in the IS300, there was space in the sides behind my head unit, so I could place the box in this gap. However, if you did not have this space, it might be difficult to place the box, and the wires.

The 2001 IS300 models (and some early 2002 models) is the only year that you have to do an additional mod because the wiring is different for this model IS300 than the latter years. There are two wires that are separate from the main wires for the year 2001s, and you have to connect these two wires to the wiring harness (this product). For 2001 IS300 owners, search online for these instructions.

My POINT is that this product works for all years of IS300s.

THE SURPRISE:
If you worked on your car enough, you KNOW there are ALWAYS curve balls.
These are the issues.
I am not positive if this will happen to ALL toyotas with factory amp (JBL or not), however, this is what I experienced, and you MOST LIKELY will experience this too.

1. The converter box puts the factory amp in "protective mode" when you go from acc/on to engine ignition. This means: You will be listening to music without your engine running either with your keys on "acc" or "on", and after you ignite your engine, the speakers will go silent. This is an easy fix though because if you turn your head unit off and turn it back on, you will get sound again. This is a minor issue, however, how it will affect your head unit will vary. You can be safe, and turn your head unit off before you ignite, then turn it back on after your engine is running.

2. There is a screw on the converter box, that can be turned with a small screwdriver, that controls how much output is sent to the factory amp. Initially, the position of the dial is too high. This puts the factory in "protective mode" and you will not get sound. The factory amp does this to avoid being over-powered/burnt/fried. When you first set up everything, everything will work fine, and then a few days later, everything will be working fine, but you won't get sound.
If so, check the screw. You don't want to set it too low either, because that will damage your factory amp as well. Also, don't press on the screw too hard with your screw driver, it lies on thin metal that bends.

Considering these inconveniences, if you could get away without using this product, I suggest you do. But in my case, I needed to keep my factory amp, because I have subwoofers in my rear speakers that only work with my factory amp. I did not want to buy another amp, subs, and sub cases etc. If you are like me, and you absolutely need to keep your factory amp, then, despite some minor inconveniences, this product isn't that bad.

All in all, I was satisfied with this product, and "I like it" (4 stars)
hopefully it will work for many years.
I will report back on how it lasts.

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